Discovering Healdsburg

by Ryan ODonnell




When one lives so close to fantastic sites and places, it’s easy to brush off the idea push plans to "maybe next weekend". Living in the San Francisco Bay Area has many perks and being overwhelmed by choice is easy.

Healdsburg in Sonoma is a quaint town 2 hours drive from San Francisco. Healdsburg Square, in the heart of this small town, is a one block square epicenter for everything this town is about. Life moves slower here. People are more relaxed, more cheerful, and more apt to greet you as you cross the street.

It would have been easy for us to be more cost-conscious when choosing a hotel for the weekend but I wanted to experience everything I could. I didn’t want to journey far for anything. The Hotel Healdsburg was my first choice – right on the corner of the Healdsburg Square and plush amenities to pamper us. You’ll plunk down serious coin to stay here but think of it as a splurge the same way you would with wine – every now and then, you gotta try the good stuff! You can’t beat the location. Anywhere else and you’ll need to drive to get to your destination. Staying here allowed us to be walking distance to over a dozen tasting rooms and wine bars. No one is worried about being the designated driver now!

We arrived Friday afternoon and checked in. The service at Hotel Healdsburg is impeccable. Everyone is very tentative but without being too aggressive about it. The bellhop, valet, front desk – everyone – had genuine smiles and seemed genuinely happy to see us (for what you pay, perhaps they better). The rooms are modern yet cozy. Light jazz playing in the background, hardwood floors, free wifi, deep oversized tubs, walk in showers and a bed that will consume you. We took a few minutes to soak everything in then we were off to walk the town!

Most of the shopping in Healdsburg is condensed near the square. The shops continue off side streets but maybe only a block or two from the center. Surprisingly, you have a lot of choice when it comes to restaurants, wine tasting, art and boutiques. Feel like sandwiches? Maybe Tai? How ‘bout some fine dining? They have a place for everyone and every budget.

We had no agenda that day so we just walked. We enjoyed the small boutiques, for Jen and even some for our dogs! We wine tasted at a few tasting rooms picking up gobs of good vino. When our hands were full of bottles and bags, we simply walked back to the hotel to drop off everything only to turn right back around keep the momentum going! Eventually, our bellies felt empty.

Manzanita Restaurant

We ate at Manzanita restaurant. Good food, big portions and reasonably priced. The staff was very helpful when we couldn’t decide on which wine to order. We took our time with our appetizers, main course and desert. With a bottle of Chardonnay lubricating the evening, what’s the rush? We sat next to a highly pretentious couple that made their snobbery known when they chuckled at the couple next to them ordering a Ravenswood Zinfandel. What's wrong with Ravenswood's Zin?!

Saturday was my day. I planned a few surprises for Jen throughout which I knew she would enjoy. After a very nice complimentary breakfast in the hotel, I sent Jen to the hotel’s connected Spa where she started by having a facial then a deep tissue massage. How many brownie points did I earn for that? A whole lot!

I wanted to check out some of the local wineries within short driving distance. They are among some of my favorites or where pivotal in my early days of discovering wine.

Seghesio Family Vineyards

Say whatever you want, Seghesio is one of the best for balancing quality with price. Their wines are amazing and not one is more than $50 bucks. If you like Italian varietals or love classic Zinfandel, this is the place to stop. Even on their busiest days, the service has always been friendly.

Simi

A few years back, I discovered Simi’s reds at Cost Plus and couldn’t buy their inventory fast enough. It was amazing quality and one of the best bargains out there. This time around though, we were both disappointed. The “everyday” wine prices have exceeded my threshold but more disappointing where their Cabernets and Merlots tasted more like wet oak and rain-soaked earth than fruit. Their Sauvignon Blanc was very nice and worth checking out though – very crisp and well balanced with lots of flavor.

Quivira Vineyards

The next time you see their wine – any wine – on the shelf, buy two bottles. You’ll consume the first so fast; you’ll need the second to satisfy your craving the day after. We originally fell in love with the Zinfandels but this time we loved their Syrah and Petite Sirah. Their quality across the board is astounding and year-to-year, they continue to make great wines.

Alderbrook Winery

Honestly, I knew nothing about Alderbrook though their name seemed to be everywhere I looked. The name felt so familiar to me, I had to stop in and I’m glad we did. We didn’t leave blown-away but a number of their wines I enjoyed very much. We were there as they were closing along with two other parties which were proud of their drunkin’ stuper. The staff had a good time with it and never once tried to push us out.

We relaxed in our hotel room after all that wine tasting. It was a lot for one afternoon!

Dry Creek Kitchen

That evening we dined at Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen. I heard mixed reviews on Yelp and after experiencing it first hand I would agree—we too had mixed feelings.

We were easily the youngest people in that restaurant by a good 15-20 years. The glares were obvious – not by the staff but the other customers! I opted to do their chef’s tasting menu with wine pairing for a little less than $100. Jen didn’t want that much food so she ordered a salad and beef dish. The service was very good despite the order in which our food was ready. The food itself was pretty good too. A few dishes stand out in mind as being very delicious but the short ribs were way too fatty for me and had to be returned for another cut. We had a good laugh when we saw a senior woman attempt to find the restrooms only to stumble into a table on her way causing quite a scene. It was hysterical… perhaps she should have quit while she ahead. Goes to show you, not just the young folks get hammered in wine country!

We left early Sunday morning to get a head start on the traffic.

Sonoma is all about wine and food pairings these days, which adds another perk to wine tasting. The tasting fees are there but aren’t enforced like they do in Napa. Also, the people behind the counter are far friendlier making the experience more pleasurable. Frankly, I’d rather spend my time tasting in Sonoma than Napa if I have the choice. For wine drinkers new to the tasting adventures, I would HIGHLY recommend starting here than Napa – you will no doubt have more fun and find the overall experience a delight.

Sonoma wine country is where your obsession will begin!


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